In the darkness of her broken clocks
Madrid cries no!
In the timeless midnight of the Fascist guns,
Madrid cries no!
To all the killers of man’s dreams,
Madrid cries no!
From the poem Madrid-1937 written by the American writer Langston Hughes inspired by the Spanish Civil War.
This poem is now preserved in the University of Texas collection of material on the Spanish Civil War, housed in the Humanities Research Center
Your Tour
On this walking tour we will visit key locations of Civil War Madrid.
Starting Point: La Puerta del Sol
We meet in the Puerta del Sol in Central Madrid, where we check out the nerve centre of Republican resistance to Franco’s armies, the Junta de Defensa, now a bank, as well as a bombed metro entrance and stores on the west side of the Puerta Del Sol square, remarkably little different to how they were in 1936, with some stores still operating under their original names!
Puerta Del Sol after a bombardment
Puerta del Sol to Plaza Mayor and Calle Toledo
We then make our way down Calle Mayor where shell blasts are still visible in granite walls, into the Plaza Mayor and then to the adjacent Calle Toledo where we can see where the iconic “No Pasarán” banner hung across the street.
Plaza Mayor
Calle Toledo, site of the iconic “No Pasaran” banner
Calle Toledo to Plaza Santa Ana and Antón Martín
From Calle Toledo we go to Plaza Santa Ana and the Cerveceria Alemana. It’s still there, much as it was when Hemingway used to patronise it in the mornings. A short walk takes us to Plaza Anton Martin and the Globo Pharmacy, which still exists complete with its balloon hanging outside, just as it did in 1936. Can you see it in this picture?
Plaza de Anton Martin
Antón Martín to Gran Via
From Antón Martín we go down the Calle Echegary, passing the newly-renovated Hotel Inglés where English-speaking International Brigaders and journalists stayed, past the Venencia sherry bar which seems like it’s been in Madrid forever, a genuine relic completely unchanged from the war and even before. From there we head towards the Gran Via to the Telefónica Buolding and the metro station, where this photo was taken by Robert Capa:
Gran Via Metro
Bar Chicote and the Telefónica
Here we get an excellent view of the Telefonica Building, the former ITT telephone exchange and centre of Republican communications, including the Censor’s Office on the 9th floor, made famous in Arturo Barea’s book of wartime Madrid, The Clash. Now we are following the route of the arrival of the first of the International Brigades into the city, the same route they took in November 1936. Arturo Barea was also responsible for the featured poster, which became the chorus of a hit by the Manic Street Preachers. Joe Strummer also took the name of Barea’s book for his band, naming it…… The Clash.
Directly in front of us is the Museo Chicote, an American cocktail bar frequented by Hemingway during his stay and mentioned in his play “The Fifth Column”. Only it was not a museum then, considering it opened in 1931!
Plaza Callao and the Hotel Florida
We proceed along Gran Via towards the spectacular art-deco Carrion building (1933) and the site of the Hotel Florida in Plaza Callao, now a department store where assorted journalists, writers and International Brigaders stayed. And partied. It was in this place that Hemingway began his relationship with the reporter Martha Gellhorn. Here we ascend to the 9th floor café of the department store, a café that offers us a panoramic view of how close Madrid was to the front lines.
Time to have a rest and a refreshing cup of coffee!
The Montaña Barracks and Hemingway’s “Old Homestead”
Next up, we head down to Plaza España and the Templo de Debod, an Egyptian temple complex presented to Spain in the 1960s. In July 1936 it was the site of the Montaña barracks where Franco’s insurgency was brutally put down in July 1936. From there we make our way along Paseo Rosales to the Parque del Este, so ruined by shellfire that Hemingway ironically called one of the apartment blocks “the Old Homestead”. It is not difficult to see how this street was completely rebuilt after the war. In the Parque del Oeste we can see two pill-boxes constructed by Franco’s forces after their assault on the Capital failed.
The University City
A final effort (by bus or on foot) brings us to the University City, scene of the bloodiest fighting in the defence of Madrid. The university has changed little since the war, apart from being shoddily rebuilt, so thankfully for us much of the Civil War damage is clearly visible. A monument to the International Brigades stands opposite the Faculty of Medicine, the only monument to the Republic in the city of Madrid.
An optional lunch / refreshment can be had in the nearby Moncloa district. This is not included in the price but can be booked in advance.